This post is about my decision to study yoga in Rishikesh. I arrived with expectations, faced realities, and left with lessons I wish I knew earlier. This is part of my 90 Days in Rishikesh Journal

Rishikesh is called the Yoga Capital of the World and depending on who you ask, that either means it’s a sacred place full of ancient wisdom or a tourist trap selling spirituality. After spending a few months here, I can say it’s both. It all depends on what you come looking for and what you bring with you.

There are hundreds of yoga schools in Rishikesh. Some are legit and some are not. Some are structured and rooted in tradition. Others are more like yoga tourism packaged with certificates and hashtags. You’ll find ashrams, drop-in classes, teacher trainings and everything in between.

The city sells itself as a spiritual hub and while that’s not wrong, it’s not the whole story. You’ll hear honking 24/7. There’s construction, dust, chaos and sales pitches on every corner.

Not every yoga teacher training is worth your time or money. Some programs crank out 200-hour certificates very fast. A lot of people arrive here expecting India to transform them. But the truth is, if you’re not grounded before you get here, the place won’t do it for you. You have to show up with discipline and discernment.

I was fortunate to practice with teachers like Sachin Ji, who takes the practice seriously. We studied traditional Ashtanga, counted in Sanskrit, practiced pranayama and chanting, dug into philosophy and adjusted each other in class every day. It was intense. Some days I felt strong and other days I could barely move, but I still showed up. Beyond the physical grind, the daily rhythm of life here taught me a lot. Even the street chaos shaped the experience and I learned to make peace outside of my comfort zone.

• Come for at least 2 months if you can.
  One month is barely enough to find your footing.
• Don’t book your training in advance.
  Spend the first couple of weeks observing different teachers and schools.
• Don’t expect the city to change you.
  Bring your own consistency. Bring your own respect for the practice and bring your own discipline.
• Ask around.
  Word of mouth is still the best way to find the good stuff.
• Keep your expectations realistic.
  You’re not coming to paradise. You’re coming to train and India will test you in all kinds of ways.

Rishikesh challenged me, humbled me and gave me more than I expected. The people I met here, from students to teachers to fruit vendors, were very kind and hospitable. And even though the city is changing fast, there’s still something timeless here if you’re willing to look for it. In short, India and its people are wonderful and I had so many great experiences, way too many to cover here.

I came to deepen my practice, and I left with more than that. I left with memories, friendships, new skills and a better understanding of what yoga really means. I look forward to my return.

If you’re considering a yoga teacher training here, you can browse registered schools through the Yoga Alliance Rishikesh directory.